Organic food: a rant from my desk in Copenhagen

One of the lead stories in the NYTimes last week reported on a Stanford University study of organic fruits, vegetables and meats. The decades-long study concluded that organic foods are not substantially more nutritious than conventionally grown products, and may still contain some trace of pesticides (http://www.nytimes.com/2012/09/04/science/earth/study-questions-advantages-of-organic-meat-and-produce.html). I read the article and the subsequent op-ed piece by Roger Cohen (Sept.7) with jaw dropped, because both the Stanford study and the opinion piece had so completely missed the mark about organic foods.

How incredibly limited to view the production of food solely in terms of the costs and benefits to the individual consumer! What about the impact on the planet and on climate control, for chrissakes! As Mark Hertsgaard points out in a story related to the Farm Bill -- and not in reaction to the organic foods study -- conventional farming is a leading contributor to greenhouse gasses. (see http://www.nytimes.com/2012/09/13/opinion/the-farm-bill-should-help-the-planet-not-just-crops.html)  Conventional monoculture farming practices also leach the soil of moisture, which further contributes to extreme drought. In other words, so what if we're creating catastrophic weather conditions for ourselves and future generations - as long as my peas cost a little less and carry an acceptably low level of pesticides.

And what about the workers who must apply the pesticides and handle the products covered with pesticides day in and day out? Maybe a significant trace of pesticides don't leach through a banana's peel into the fruit itself, but how many hands are on those bananas before we peel it? Years ago, I heard Eric Schlosser speak at Princeton about his landmark book, Fast Food Nation. While he was gratified that many readers had eschewed fast food in favor of sustainably grown products as a result of his book, he was shocked that there wasn't more outrage about the working conditions fostered by conventional agriculture and slaughterhouses. For him, this was the biggest take-away from all his research on the subject.

In Copenhagen right now, there is a very personable poster around town explaining that public kitchens, which prepare the food for Copenhagen's nursery schools, senior centers and meals for shut-ins is now 75% organic, with a goal of achieving 90% by 2015. Copenhagen will then have the most sustainable municipal food service in the world.

Billboard in Kongens Nytorv about Copenhagen Community Kitchens

If one then goes to the website for the Copenhagen public kitchens,  http://www.kbhmadhus.dk/ , it becomes clear that the 90% benchmark is part of a larger sustainable energy plan for the city - a plan which includes more and better public transportation and bike paths, and increased reliance on incinerated trash and windmills for energy. One will also find menu plans and seasonal charts of local fish and produce for use by parents - because local foods use fewer fossil fuels to travel to your table.

Some of the 1,750 food service workers employed by Copenhagen public kitchens

The emphasis on organic, locally sourced food in Denmark is not just occurring at the public level. It is part and parcel of what makes the restaurant scene here so vibrant. The "new Nordic" restaurants such as Noma and its progeny are buoyed by a compelling world view about food, where it should come from and how it should be grown. As a result, the food is remarkably fresh and delicious. You can taste the outdoors in the salads and the seafoods we've had the pleasure of eating here. Even humble root vegetables - locally grown potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, beets, and black radishes - are taking a star turn in these restaurants because they taste of the earth, and not because of some extraordinarily complicated preparation.

Whether public or private the overriding message in Denmark is clear - it's about the planet, stupid. Keep an eye on the big picture, including the food you eat,  and everyone is better off.